By Svend Aage Buus
Translation of an article in a Danish magazine
HUNTING IN ARGENTINA
Let hunting begin!
Photograph: Lodge in Cordoba for dove hunting
I have realized my dream of going hunting to South America several times. Shooting at a puma in an open course in Argentina has been at the top of my list of wishes, not only because the puma a good trophy but also because it’s one of the local species still allowed to be hunted.
I got in touch with some Argentineans living in Denmark who, apart from being specialists in trips to South America, run a travel agency called EuroAmerican Travel. They, in turn, got in touch with a local outfitter who offered puma, blackbuck and dove hunting, within other animals.
Besides hunting itself, the plan was to travel around the country once we were there. Thus, together with the hunting safari, a sightseeing tour was to be planned. It was arranged by EuroAmerican Travel, which put the whole tour in a superior unit.
In Easter 2005, I set out together with my hunting partner- Ove, the author- and our respective mates on a 3-week experience in Argentina.
After a long 16-hour flight, we landed in Buenos Aires the next morning with nice weather-25 degrees. After all the gun formalities at the airport- which we underwent without problems- we were driven downtown to our hotel, where we had to spend the night before we begin our adventure the following day.
Finally hunting
Early the following morning, our outfitter- Jose Luis Grasso- our translator Vanesa and a driver came to pick us up.
After a 2-hour drive, we arrived at the hunting area, where we were to hunt blackbucks. Jose Luis had explained on the road that we had to change hunting areas from the blackbuck’s to the puma’s. He hunts in the best area for each wild species. As opposed to some others outfitters who gather all the species within the same wire netting, to which he categorically opposes. He deals with hunting in the open field.
After lodging in an “estancia” (Argentine kind of ranch), we went to the hunting area. On the road, we picked up a local guide- Raul- a very original “gaucho” (Argentine cowboy) who knew the region. The hunting area has 5000 hectares and, at that same time, there were cows eating. We are talking about plain fields without covering. The animals were extremely attentive and shy. I was going to try first, so, together with Raul, we moved slowly towards the herd. When we were about 300 meters from them, the herd began to feel unquiet and it was time to shoot. Suddenly, there was a free male goat to shoot, so we had to aim quickly upwards, retain it and let the bullet fly.
The fellow was knocked down; it was hit a little in its upper part on its back, but it remained in that place. What a beautiful trophy: black, with strong and rolled up horns! Another hunting dream came true.
Short afterwards, Ove also caught a good blackbuck and everything finished as soon as it began.
Then, it was time for lunch. We ate in the main wing of the “estancia” we were hunting at. Lunch consisted of a true Argentine “asado” (typical Argentine barbecue), which means big amounts of wood charcoal-grilled cow-meat with a good red Argentine wine…delicious!
After sleeping, the next day we were driven to the province of La Pampa, to the south of the city of Santa Rosa, where we would hunt pumas. It was an 8-hour drive, so it took all day. In that way, we got to know a little bit more of the country.
Once again, we lodged in an extremely nice “estancia” with a swimming pool, riding opportunities, etc.
The following day, we would try puma hunting. We would meet again a local guide who knows the area. The night before, Jose Luis had got in touch with the guide; he had a lot of anecdotes to tell. There were many tracks of pumas in the area, so it was promising. We met the guide- Claudio- the following morning; we were finally going to start what we had traveled for from so far away. The hunting was going to begin in a way that Claudio would ride his horse around the area with his undefined breed dogs. When the dogs smell, they would follow the track. When they found something, they howled. It was a pity that what they had smelled was a wildboar. When they spotted it, they frightened and ran away, and we had no dogs. “We started fine,” I thought. But we immediately looked for other dogs and started off again.
Soon after that, the dogs howled again and there they went. This time, there wasn’t one puma; there were two in two different trees. Both of them were good males. Then, it was over. The dogs found two pumas at the same time, which was something exceptional since male pumas do not normally go together. However, as their reproduction season was beginning, they must have been tracking the same female. Lucky us!
Everything was over in less than two hours. A strange feeling spread over us: we had been very lucky but, at the same time, everything finished almost as soon as it had began.
After lunch, Ove shot at a good wildboar; this time also with the help of the dogs.
After appropriately celebrating our success that night, the following morning we took a break. We relaxed in the swimming-pool before heading north, dove-hunting in Cordoba.
Millions of doves
We had heard the usually absurd number of shots that one could experience Argentina dove hunting and of course I was to try it.
We stayed at Jose Luis’ own new lodge. Everything was arranged in this Argentina dove hunting experience, from the tango-show that night after dinner to breakfast on the dining-room- one of the most perfect experiences I have had.
We were with a group of Spanish hunters who had been Argentina dove hunting a couple of days before we arrived and with whom we would hunt. The following day, we were driven to a place that could be better described as a big natural wire netting. We were provided with a birdboy, shells and a borrowed shotgun. Then, the episode Argentina dove hunting took place. The birdboy was in charge of checking that the vest pockets were always full of shells, of looking for water and more shells, etc. After 100 shots, no doves had fallen and the shotgun- which was not the one I had taken with me- was aiming worse and worse.
A new semi-automatic, 20-gauge gun was found and things went better. By the end of the day, I had knocked down 289 doves with 825 shots. I did not shoot more because I was aiming at doves flying high to be able to have good shots. Our Spanish friends fired 2,000 shots per person; one of them, 2,500 shots. On the other hand, they shot at random at many doves. Low shots meant no hunting! Everything had to be shot at, and so it was!
There was a constant swarm of doves in the air. Had I not seen it myself, I would not have believed it. Argentina dove hunting has to be experienced.
After two days in Cordoba as tourists, it was time to say goodbye to Jose Luis and his wonderful professional team.
Now, the tourist part of our trip would begin. EuroAmerican Travel offers a tourist program consisting of short 2-3-day-trips that you combine as you wish. We had chosen to go to Patagonia, the Iguazu Falls and a couple of days to Buenos Aires. We wanted to see as much as we could now that we were there.
To World’s End
Our first stop in this trip was Patagonia- Ushuaia, to be more precise, the southest city in the world. It is located at the exactly the same distance from the Equator to the south as Denmark to the north. Ushuaia had all that indescribable atmosphere for being world’s end, and there we were. Next stop, the South Pole.
The weather was cruelly cold. Anyway, we were somehow lucky with the weather- the temperature was between 5 and 15 degrees. If you are looking for fresh air, this is the ideal place. Actually, the air contains 15 % more oxygen than in other places in the world and, as there are no industries down here, there is no pollution.
It was a majestic experience to visit this unique and wonderful city at the end of the world.
Iguazu Falls
Afterwards, we traveled to the north, to the Iguazu Falls, located at the frontier triangle between Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. Iguazu are the largest waterfalls in the world, with 275 falls- including small and big ones- in a surface of almost 3 kilometers. Its water flows towards the impressive border at 2,000 cubic meters per second.
It was a big change, from the Patagonia weather with penguins and cold temperatures to the jungle with toucans and tropical hot weather. At the same time, this is a clear description of the contrasts Argentina unveils- that wonderful country where you have the chance to experience everything.
Buenos Aires
Afterwards, went back to Buenos Aires, where we would spend the last days before returning home. Buenos Aires is like other big cities in the world, but is has its own and unique charm; A sleepless city, but one that constantly flows at the rhythm of tango and the waters of the Rio de la Plata, on which coast it lies. The city dwellers are full of life, and when you walk around the colorful neighborhood of La Boca, among all the artists and tango dancers, you find the meaning of life in Buenos Aires.
It was with big melancholy that we said “See you later” to Buenos Aires after three weeks. Not goodbye, but “See you later,” because we will come back.
Information on the argentinda dove hunting trip
The trip was requested to and planned by EuroAmerican Travel in Frederikssund. They are specialists in trips to Argentina and South America.
For more information, visit www.euroamericantravel.dk and www.jjcaceria.com.ar.
We flew with Lufthansa from Frankfurt for 5,200 Krones from Billund, round trip.
Flights within Argentina have an extremely reasonable price, as all prices in general in Argentina.
The best period is from mid March to mid April, when temperatures are nice and fall to 20-25 degrees. Before this period, the weather may be very hot.
Guns can be rented in Argentina. Anyway, we took our own rifles with us. The Argentine Consulate in Copenhague issues the gun license and provides help with all procedures.
Danish Translation bySvend Aage Buus
English Translation by Ea